Antonio’s

In journalism objectivity is an ideal. There is fairness, but no strict objectivity. And fairness is one of those slippery terms. How can one be fair when the criteria by which we judge are infinite? And the criteria are infinite in the burrito-judging business. Or, if not infinite, they are many and intangible. If you’ve read my other reviews then you know I like places because they are soothing to the eye or because the cook has a sense of humor. Sometimes I’m more favorable in my esteem because of what I’ve heard going into it or my general humor. Yes, sadly, Dr. Burrito is human too, which means he is neither objective nor consistent.

In the case of Antonio’s I feign no impartiality. It’s not the first place I would take the person I was trying to convince of the greatness of SD burritos. It’s not the tenth place. But I’m there all the time nonetheless, because it’s good, it’s reliable, it’s near where I work, and mostly because the people who work there are so damn nice.

So there I was, sitting, chewing my 500^th burrito from this place, when it dawned on me: this place is great. I mean it. I love it. It was an epiphany, like in Portrait of the Artist that had me yelling moo-cow at the top of my lungs (in my head) as I left, stepping into the perfect sunshine of a wintry summer day.

Note: Antonio’s does not make a very good carne asada burrito. The meat is sort of stewy and striated and it’s very much like other not-so-good carne asada burritos to be found around town. But because I try not to eat much meat, it’s not what I order most days. I like the vegetarian burrito and the breakfast burritos. The carnitas are not bad at all.

Unfortunately the salsa bar is not tremendous, but it is freshly made and it works all right. The radishes are fresh, sliced, and free. They float in a bath of cold water. The red salsa is watery and not well focused, though it will do the trick. I eat about three hot sauce containers per burrito on average, mostly red, so it can’t be bad.

I like the people who work at Antonio’s. I don’t know who Antonio is, but he attracts nice people. I also like the people who eat at Antonio’s. Not so much the lunch crowd—it’s Paul Mitchell students and business lunchers mostly—but in the mornings when it’s slow or the late afternoon. You see an eclectic mix of retirees, construction workers, soldiers, and anyone else who passes by and feels the magnetic draw to eat. There are big glass windows that over look 6^th and A Street. Plenty to watch.

All of what makes SD’s burritos great emanates from the people. So thank you everyone at Antonio’s for making my days richer, and thank you also San Diegans, you strange tribe, for keeping on as you are.

1350 6th Ave., San Diego