Jonathan Gold & the L.A. Burrito
I thought I could ignore this Jonathan Gold guy but he keeps hurling them. In a piece subtitled–I’m serious–”It’s a Chicano thing — You gotta understand,” he wonders: “Do we dare insult the oozing tubes of melted cheese that pass for burritos in San Diego?”
You do, Johnathan, so why ask?
Gold has a Pulitzer, he gives interviews on NPR, and now, in his most ambitious role yet, he’s talking shit about the San Diego burrito.
On behalf of all of San Diego County, Johnathan, I’m–I’m not pissed. I’m confused by the “oozing tubes of cheese” description. A quesadilla? Moreover, I’m annoyed with this whole snarky blogger I’m-gonna-tell-you-how-it-is tone. It’s doctrinaire, and it’s bitchy.
Johnathan: So you have a list of five good taco shops; you possess a few Spanish vocabulary words; you’ve created some rules (e.g., no rice on a burrito!) and established your comfort zone; you have your hallowed commute to East LA, always with some so-and-so. Good for you. You’ve found what all hipsters seek and obsess over: perceived authenticity. And you have an audience who finds you credible, maybe even adventurous, an authority.
But long commutes across a hazy gridwork to arrive at some ethnic enclave aren’t necessary here in San Diego, not for burritos. We can walk to our taquerias in Barrio Logan as well as La Jolla. No, there’re not all great but these are the primary considerations: quality and flavor. It might be a Chicano thing, but not necessarily.
But you don’t care. You’ve met your deadline and it sounds nice, sort of authentic. Good for you.


No Comments
No comments yet.
RSS feed for comments on this post.
Sorry, the comment form is closed at this time.